Feb 02, 2015 8 Questions with: Jenny Wu
Our team began a dialogue with LACE founder Jenny Wu as part of our FastPitch event last summer. We were intrigued and impressed with her concept of 3D printed wearable designs. Applying 3D printing technology to the jewelry category affords limitless possibilities of design and materials, and LACE has been gaining notoriety and momentum. Jenny is a partner at Los Angeles based architecture and design office, Oyler Wu Collaborative, an award winning firm that is recognized for its experimentation in design and fabrication. Jenny is Columbia and Harvard educated, and currently a member of the design faculty at Sci-Arc (Southern California Institute of Architecture). LACE has recently been featured in Forbes, Dwell, PSFK, and Architect magazines.
What is your background, and how was LACE concepted from Oyler Wu Collaborative?
I am an architect and a partner at the LA-based, experimental architectural firm, Oyler Wu Collaborative. I have been using 3D printing for the past 10 years mainly for architectural model making. I have always been interested in jewelry because I see the potential of jewelry as being “architecture” on the body. About a year and half ago, I started sketching some ideas and decided to 3D-model it digitally. As a quick way to prototype the pieces, I 3D printed them to see how they fit and looked. In December of 2014, I attended Art Basel Miami and brought a few of the prototype necklaces with me. Wearing them around Miami that week, I received so much attention with the jewelry that I decided to design a collection of my own called LACE by Jenny Wu.
Photo: Christian Coleman
Describe the evolution of LACE over the last year.
The year prior to the launch of LACE last October was very challenging, especially in finalizing the production and material selection for the pieces. Since I wanted to use 3D printing for the final production and not just for prototyping, I had to experiment with various different 3D printers to find the best technology and material that could produce high resolution intricacies and details but that is still durable and wearable. We also had to design many more pieces to fill the collection as well as designs for the packaging of the entire line. Using our digital fabrication background, we designed and fabricated CNC milled wood boxes for the premium collection. For the experimental collection, we collaborated with MRKT, an accessories company that primarily uses felt for their products, on the design and fabrication of laser cut felt pouches. As much as I can, I want every aspect of the product to be designed and not simply ordered from a supplier. We launched the website and pre-order in October of last year and debuted our first pop-up shop during Miami Art Week this past December.
What is the inspiration for your pieces?
My background is in architecture. My firm, Oyler Wu Collaborative, has been utilizing line-based geometries in the design of installations and buildings for some time. I see the jewelry as an extension of the architectural inquiry but now applying it to the body. We weave together intricate combinations of lines to create unique, 3-dimensional pieces.
Photo: Christian Coleman
Where do you hope to take LACE in the near and long-term future?
3D printing technology is evolving so quickly. Things that were not possible even a few years ago are now realizable. This is what makes the technology so interesting and exciting. I’m continuing to pursue and experiment with different 3D printing materials and technologies especially in creating large, metal jewelry pieces. I have been overwhelmed with all of the great feedback about my collection so I’m excited to continue to produce avant-garde, wearable designs.
Photo: Christian Coleman
What are some insights or lessons to share as you’ve experienced the growth of Lace?
Patience and persistence. When you work with a technology that is not made for the product you are creating, every step of the process is challenging and new. But there have been great people along the way who have helped me make this happen, which includes my amazing partner, Dwayne Oyler and the Oyler Wu staff.
Photo: Clifford Ho
What are you currently working on?
My work involves being a full time architect, jewelry designer as well as a design faculty member at the Southern California Institute of Architecture (SCI-Arc). Right now I’m working on a cross-over project between 3D printing and architecture. We are designing a space for The Sugar Lab, a company that produces 3D printed sugar. The space is in construction now and will open this year!
What are some of the projects you have been most proud of at Oyler Wu?
I have been proud of the fact that our office is able to be very selective about the types of projects we work on. We have done a series of installations projects, (i.e. Live Wire, Netscape, Stormcloud, etc.) at SCI-Arc that have been instrumental to the development of the office. In fact this month, we are launching our second book called Trilogy: SCI-Arc Pavilions, which focuses on three projects that we did there.
As a kid, what did you want to be?
An architect! Seriously…